Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
