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When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.